Why The Dutch aren’t Americans: Early Musings on Dutch Life

Three weeks of this journey have already passed. I am certainly not part of Dutch society yet! In fact, it is funny to think about how I will ever be like the Dutch. Not that the lifestyle is bad by any means. But it is simply not American! Here are some of my early musings on the topic.

The Dutch are not super-sized. Nothing about the Dutch life is big. It is hard to find an overweight person in Rotterdam. Most are rather slim, and they are certainly in shape. I look forward to the day when I am not passed by a Dutch rider when I am on my bicycle.

It is hard to find “family portions” in the grocery store. I found pretzels the other day. For the one brand they have, the pretzels are packaged in a bag that may serve perhaps three American servings. Nothing like the 1 lb. bags of pretzels in the U.S.

It is good, however, that portions do not come super-sized, for the kitchens are anything but large. Advertisements for apartments that are available for rent highlight “large refrigerators”. So it must be somewhat unusual to have a full-size fridge. I have started to shop two or three times per week so we can keep the food in our small fridge.

Apart from food, there is other evidence that the Dutch are not super-sized. Smart Cars, which are gaining some press in the U.S., are commonplace here. Smart Cars fit two people – perhaps. Parking places are small. Roads are narrow. Apartments are small. I have not seen any SuperStores. Dogs – many at least – are small enough to fit into the basket on the owner’s bicycle.

How else is Dutch life different? Activities are certainly different here. As already mentioned, bicycling is a main means of transport. In Rotterdam, the bicycle paths are extremely well-marked, and there are even bridges and tunnels specifically for bicycles.

Shopping, like in the States, is important, but it takes on a very different meaning when one must provide his or her own shopping bags; when the stores are not open past 7:30 or on Sundays, and when the open-air markets are some of the most popular shopping venues.

The approach to work is very different. Our friend just accepted a new job, and he is not sure how he will take of the 30 “required” days of vacation. (That’s not counting sick leave, holidays, etc.) The Dutch do not seem to work overtime, either. They do their work, and then they go home! This is not to say that the Dutch entrepreneurial spirit is not still alive! There is a lot of work that happens when the Dutch are at work.

Pet-walking is a major activity here. And the pets go everywhere! They will walk with their owners into stores, onto the subway, or into (some) restaurants. They come on leashes, in baby buggies, or in baskets. They are as transportable as babies.

So, no, the Dutch aren’t Americans. But this American is going to try to learn a little bit about the Dutch lifestyle!

Internationalism

Today, Dan and I - two Americans - ate a Chinese dinner in a restaurant that served Dutch snacks. Dan ordered in Chinese. There were other students from Finland, India, Korea, and China. And a dog walked through the restaurant.

Food - American Style

Dan, sweet, sweet, Dan pointed out a sign with "Philly" on it. "Look, there's Philly!" My mouth watered instantly. However, it wasn't Philly Connection, the restaurant where my two addictions can be satisfied. Philly Connection Cheesesteaks and Mountain Dew - oh, to have a taste. Now, 3 days later, I am still longing for a taste.

Dan teases me by pointing out signs with Philly on them. Pepsi teases me by placing HUGE pop machines in the corners around the city. I look, look, look for the beautiful green that would indicate Mountain Dew. I see it...could it be? I run...no, it is 7-UP. Oh, to have my Philly and my Dew.

Trouble with the law

We're having some trouble with the Dutch police these days.

Dan was resting his eyes on a bench in a mall here a few weeks ago, and the police approached him saying that he really shouldn't shut his eyes when he's sitting down. Apparently, some people reported Dan to the mall security!

Two days after I arrived, we locked our bikes and ran a few errands in the same mall. Dan has done this several times before, without any trouble. But this time when we exited the mall, I noticed 4 policemen, all in their olive green and sage uniforms standing in the area. Dan begins to unlock our bikes, and they all walk toward him. Four policemen! They begin speaking Dutch to him, but when he replies in English, their whole demeanor changed. (Thankfully - I was wondering how I was going to bail him out of jail.) Our bikes were parked illegally. Go figure. No signs. No trouble before. But now we know, thanks to four (FOUR!!!) policemen.

But the trend continues. Just today, we took our bikes on the Metro, and walked them outside, heading for the nearest street. A Dutch security guard (no olive green and sage on this guy) begins pointing and exclaiming to Dan. Bikes aren't allowed. We get it.

In only two weeks, and without a car, we've accumulated more "traffic violations" than we have in the past 5 years with cars!

Missing Home

I'm homesick, and I'm experiencing culture shock right now. This is so different than being a tourist in a different country. I live here. I shop in grocery stores. I reside in a residential area. With my shopping bags and bicycle, I suppose I look Dutch. Strangers speak to me expecting that I can reply in their own language.

I'm looking forward to Dutch classes. I'm not sure how much I can learn going once per week, but I hope it will give me a clue to some of the common phrases I hear on the Metro or in the stores. The Dutch speak very good English, but they certainly prefer their own language. I feel as if I am unjustly requiring them to speak my language when I am a guest in their country. I need to learn some of their language. It seems right.

I'm not certain if the language will cure my culture shock, but I do hope it goes away shortly! I knew it would hit, and I know it will hit again. However, it is not a pleasant feeling to have. It is a feeling of missing the familiar and missing the comforts of home. I want this life to be familar and comfortable.

Top Ten Week Two Discoveries

1. Dutch trains are very reliable…except when trying to get to Rome.
2. Despite train troubles in Holland, a two-hour plane trip to Rome is quite worth it!
3. Toaster ovens only go up to 250 degrees…took me awhile to figure out that’s Celsius.
4. “American Pizza” comes with corn kernels.
5. Bell peppers are “paprikas”. How convenient.
6. Twix bars aren’t as sweet here.
7. Residence permits and custom approval letters in Dutch don’t make much sense (assuming that’s what those letters were).
8. Twenty roses for Euro 4.50 … that’s heaven.
9. Dutch weather – sunshine, hail, snow, rain. All in 30 minutes.
10. 7 days not on a bike…I'm not Dutch yet!

Week One

I've made it one whole week already! I'm still not sure what I think about the whole experience. On one hand, it's fun to think about the possibilities of exploring and learning a new culture and language. On the other hand, it is a bit overwhelming! Learning a new culture is one thing...adapting to it is different!

Right now the best times I have are riding my bike down one road in particular (I haven't a clue what it's name is). This road is lined with canals (as many are, but this one is particularly long), and there are birds swimming and playing all along the canals. Ducks, swans, funny looking geese, and several other unkown types. Even when there is a film of ice on the canals, the birds are still there, walking on ice or swimming in an unfrozen spot. It is quite calming.

The biggest adjustment so far has been the evenings in the apartment. The whole city seems to shut down after about 7:30. The streets seem desolate, and none of the stores around are open. It is eerily quiet. I hope I adjust to this quickly!

We applied for a residence permit yesterday, which was an interesting (read: beaurucratic)experience! Right now, we are temporarily legal! It is odd to think that we are not residents of the U.S. anymore. Our legal residence is in another land.

Well, we are celebrating my first week and Dan's first semester by taking a long weekend "jaunt" to Rome. So I must begin packing - after all, the plane leaves in 4 hours!

The Trip

Scales are very useful. They let expatriates-to-be know how overweight their bags are, which helps to avoid the astronomical charges airlines levy if bags are overweight. Three bags - each no more (and no less) than 70 pounds - are loaded in my car. My carry-ons are carefully packed with momentos and valuables. A fourth bag is in the car as well, ready to be transferred to my dad, who plans on visiting in the springtime. I'm not as weighed down as Dan was when he moved in September, but I certainly have plenty of goods. It is our life that we are moving, after all!

I arrive at the airport with my dad. I get checked in, and we say our good-byes. Good-byes have been strange. When I lived in Birmingham, Alabama and most of our family were still hundreds of miles away, good-byes seemed much harder. Then, it seemed we were limited by available vacation time. Now (for me, at least) that limitation is lifted, and it seems as if I'll have more time with family. We'll see how that pans out, though, when I'm in the remote recesses of Macedonia or Lithuania! (Mom, that one's for you :-) )

I'm on the plane. I don't sleep. I watch movies. I get excited. I get nervous. I think about how good it will be to be with Dan again. I wonder what on earth I'm doing. I pray and I read my Bible. I think about the fact that I don't have a return ticket. I pray some more!

Layover in Frankfurt. It's early morning. Stores and restaurants are closed. I'm in Germany! In only a few hours I'll be "home". I freshen up in the WC. I board the plane to Amsterdam.

There's Dan! Peering above the privacy glass, it's him! He directs me to get a luggage cart. How did he know I would need one? My luggage comes. I walk through customs. Were they laughing at me and my stuff??? I'm with Dan.

Now comes the hard part. We don't own a car. The Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam is 2 trains and a 20 minute walk away from our apartment in Rotterdam. Dan's done this before (three times - twice alone), so he comes prepared. Our heavy-duty luggage cart and multiple bungee cords will come in handy again. I imagine him doing this with all of his belongings when he arrived in September. I imagine him managing the luggage and two cats when he flew back just a few weeks ago. I'm glad it wasn't me!

We get loaded up and "hop" on the train. So far so good. The transfer is fine, too. Someone offered to help with our bags. And he didn't run away with them! The walk, though. Oh, that was brutal. Cold. Windy. I'd been up for 19 hours. Why'd I pack so much anyway?

But we make it. We're home.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE - NO TRAVEL PROBLEMS. Readers: this will be VERY important, if my past travel record is any indication.