Tuesday, August 30, 2005

America

Wide-eyed, looking at all the billboards and signs. So many stores and restaurants from which to choose.

Driving slower than most everybody else on the roadways. Wishing for my bike.

HUGE plates of food set before patrons of restaurants. How to finish it all?

Being able to READ everything around me and UNDERSTAND all the people around me.

Stopping, briefly, before speaking to someone, wondering how to say what I'm going to say. Relief when I realized where I was and that she would speak English.

Tuesday, August 23, 2005

One Week in America

I leave Holland tomorrow to go to...the USA! What will it be like to hear a language I understand, to read signs I can read, to shop without converting everything in my head, to see big SUVs on the road?

Hurry up and wait

Expatriate-izing is hard work. Take the yesterday, for example.

I will be doing some traveling in September (no, that's not the "hard work" part) that requires my passport to be valid 6 months past the time I will be traveling. Mine expires in February 2006, so that means I need to renew it. If I was in the States, I would simply mail in the passport with the renewal form, and the new one would magically appear in my mailbox in 2 weeks. While overseas, however, the citizen needs to make a personal appearance to the consulate's office. So...

I ride my bike to Centraal Station at 6:35 a.m. arrive at 6:55 a.m.
Train to Amsterdam Centraal leaves at 7:02 a.m. arrives around 8:00 a.m.
Tram to Consulate's Office drops me off somewhere close around 8:25 a.m.
Wander around Museumplein looking for an American flag till 8:35 a.m.
See line. Wait in security line #1 until 9:15 a.m.
Full body search over by 9:18 a.m.
Wait in security line #2 until 9:27 am.
Conduct business at Window 5 for 6 minutes. SIX MINUTES.
Collect my valuables at 9:34 a.m.
Home free??? NO!!
Wait in line to be let OUT of the compound. FINALLY out of compound at 9:41 a.m.
Console myself with a look around the Rijksmuseum and a falafel met hummus (where's the hummus, please???).
Board 11:59 a.m. train back to Rotterdam Centraal. Arrive at 1:27 p.m.
Bike home, arriving at 1:54 p.m.

You can do the math...traveling or waiting in line for 5+ hours to do SIX minutes worth of business. The best part is, when my passport comes in, I get to do it again to pick it up!

But, in all honesty, it's not that difficult. The lines in Moldova were much scarier. Ivan actually "rented" a line holder when we did the police registration so we could do two things at once. He found the longest line we would have to wait in, then talked to the last person in line to "hold our place", then we scurried around the building do complete the other business. When we got back, our line holder was still holding our place!

Thursday, August 18, 2005

A Speeding Ticket?!?!

Now, how...how did I manage this one? I haven't driven a car for more than 1500 kilometers in 6 months. And even that was only for a 4-day period of time. And that was in Apri!!

But I've managed to earn myself my first speeding ticket...ever. No, it's not for riding too fast on my bike. It is from that 4-day footloose and fancy free ride to Friesland and back with Dan and my Dad. A camera, I presume, caught me (now I know why all my Dutch friends say those cameras should be banned). I don't even know when or how it happened, and it looks like I nearly evaded this one...it took 3 months for the ticket to find me! Yet even now, they haven't found me...the ticket is in Dan's name, even though he never drove. Poor guy.

P.S. Dad, you were part of this. I expect 15 Euros in the mail on Saturday to cover your third.

Wednesday, August 17, 2005

And I never got to say goodbye...

Yesterday, in an attempt to restock our kitchen cupboards, I made my way to the grocery store. From a previous post, you may remember my hate-hate relationship with the grocery store in my neighborhood. I was dreading it.

So there I am, riding along Oude Dijk looking for the sign - 2 big red conjoined hearts and the words "Den Toom" inside of them. The sign was nowhere. Nowhere. I nearly rode past the entrance.

But when I found the entrance, I saw it. Den Toom is gone. Replaced by Albert Heijn. A big blue and white sign. No hearts. I felt like riding into the parking lot singing, "Aahh-le-luia." But that would be overly dramatic.

Even better, they've remodeled! Gone are the super skinny, super short checkout counters. The aisles are wide. The selection is organized. It's a beautiful thing. I still have to pack my own bags and lug the groceries the same distance and up the same number of stairs, but hopefully I won't break a sweat just doing the shopping anymore.

Monday, August 15, 2005

Back in Holland

We are back in Holland. When we arrived at The Attic around noon yesterday, we were greeted by two excited cats. One met us at the door on the first floor and one met us at the top of the stairs. Looking at the picture of both of them, you can probably guess which one did what!

It’s nice to be back. Today, I was overwhelmed by what to wear…so many options! And, although my body regrets it today, getting back onto my bike yesterday was very nice (I should really invest in a softer seat). High-speed internet is WONDERFUL, and a consistent, large flow of hot water is WONDERFUL.

But it was emotional to leave Moldova. It is hard to leave behind the oh-so-generous people, the simpler lifestyle, and cute Nelia. It is even more difficult, though, to leave behind the work. Idealistic notions of making the world a better place aside, there is a contentment in working for others that is so satisfying. We were so fortunate to have the privilege of working for the Moldovans.

Thursday, August 11, 2005


On Sunday, Dan and I will be reunited with these two furry creatures. Introducing Abby... Posted by Picasa

...and Madeline! Posted by Picasa

We can't wait! Posted by Picasa

Remnants of the USSR

Recently we’ve been hearing tidbits about what it was like for our friends here to live in the USSR. Some are a few of the more fascinating facts…

Ivan’s father was aboard K19 during the first accident. He rarely talks about it – justifiably so.

When finally allowed to travel to Romania in the 1980s, lines to get into Romania from Moldova (ethnically, Moldovans are closer to Romanians than the Russians) were 15 kilometers long. It took 10 days to cross the border. Hm. And I was complaining that it took nearly 2 hours last week.

Finally, Anatolli, our host father, commented one evening before a meal with us and some other Americans, “Who would have thought when we were part of the U.S.S.R. that one day we would be sitting down to eat dinner with Americans.” That humbles me.

Monday, August 08, 2005

Bethishian

I realized a few days ago that I no longer speak English. Nor do I speak any other language, except for the newly formed one of Bethishian. Learning four new languages in 6 months, on top of the three others I knew already, has led me to begin speaking Bethishian. Since I am the only one who speaks it, here is a user’s guide to some of the common phrases of Bethishian. I have included the English version of the phrase, and then provided my two preferred choices. The (Bethishian, i.e. not necessary correct) pronunciation and language (if any) are in parentheses.

Hello
Hei (“hay” – Finnish)
Ni hao (“nee how” – Chinese)
Goodbye.
[Cyrillic for pukka] (“puh ka” – Russian)
Zai jian (“zai jeean” – Chinese)
Please
S’il vous plait (“See voo play” – French)
Qing (“Ching” – Chinese)
Thank you.
[Cyrillic for spaseeba] (“Spahseeba” – Russian)
Kiitos (“keetoe-s” – Finnish)
How are you?
Hoe gaat het met je? (Who hot it met ye? – Dutch)
How are you? (“How ar u?” – English)
Here
Iaci (“Ah-eech” – Romanian)
Ici (“eessee” – French)
Yes
Joo (“Yo” – Finnish)
Da (“Dah” – Romanian and Russian)
No
Nee (“Nay” – Dutch)
No (“Noh” – English)
How much (does this cost)?
Duo shao? (“Duoh shao” – Chinese)
Cut costa? (“Cuit cahstah” – Romanian)
What time is it?
Mita kello on? (“meeta kelo own” – Finnish)
Quelle heure est-il? (“kell er ei teel” – French)
Good morning.
[Cyrillic for dobrei jin] (“Doebrei jeen” – Russian)
Goede morgen (“Ghooteh morghen” – Dutch)
God is good.
God is goede (“Hote is hoot” – Dutch)
God is good (“God is good” – English)
I am Beth.
Ik ben Beth (“Ick ben Beth” – Dutch)
Je m’appelle Beth (“Juh muh pell Beth” – French)
I speak Bethishian.
Mina puhuun Bethishia. (“Meena poohoon Bethisheeah” – Finnish)
I speak Bethishian. (“I speek Bethisheean” – English)

Saturday, August 06, 2005

Six Months!

On Thursday, I celebrated my 6-months-of-being-overseas-anniversary. I can’t say I took a long time to reflect on it, but I suppose it is a milestone of sorts. My only contact with American soil for six months now was to visit the embassy to get some documents notarized. (By the way, don’t take pictures at the embassy…no matter how excited you are to see a U.S. flag.) I still think that it is wild so many expats spend years overseas with no trips back “home”. But I can see how 6-months can turn into several years rather easily. Dan has already been overseas for nearly a year, with only one trip back over Christmas. Somehow, life just continues on, and we make a home wherever we are. No matter where in the world I am, if I’m there long enough, it becomes home, and home is always somewhat difficult to leave behind. I am fortunate to have so many “homes”!

Thursday, August 04, 2005

Why, the little…

Bugger, stinker, pooper…what other terms of endearment have my mother and grandmother used on me or my cousins? All of them fit Nelia quite well right now.

Our host family was home yesterday afternoon, and I took the opportunity to ask to use their iron and ironing board. Remember, I don't know Russian and they don't know English. I had it all worked out in my mind. I would find Tatiana wandering about in the yard, show her the wrinkled shirt I was carrying, then I would make like I was ironing with my fist. It would work splendidly, right?

Wrong. I failed to work out a contingency plan for Nelia. Nelia spies me right away from the third floor balcony. “Beh eht,” she says in her sing-songy voice. I was actually glad she remembered me…she’s been quite shy with me since my return to Moldova. “OK,” I thought, “I can handle this.” “Nelia…Mama?” I ask, hoping she will quickly fetch her mother for me. “Mama [insert Russian 5-year old speak] da,” she replies. Well, “da” means “yes”, so I assume she kind of understands me. Then I hear her talking to Mama (Tatiana), I hear Nelia saying my name, and then I hear Tatiana reply. Ahhh…great, Tatiana will come down soon, right?

Nope. Nelia comes outside to play. We play train and airplane and Follow-the-Leader. We play animal sounds and some new jumping game that anyone over the age of 7 shouldn’t be allowed to play. Consumes way too much energy, especially in 95 degree heat. I wonder where Tatiana is, but I also hear lots of scrubbing and general cleaning happening in the house. I figure she is stuck in a bathroom or bedroom, preparing it for the next round of guests they are about to receive. Finally, Nelia, out of the blue, leads me into the house. I should have suspected something.

But I didn’t. Making sure I am following her, she puts her finger to her mouth. OK, I am supposed to be quiet. I can play 5-year old “let’s be quiet games”. We tiptoe up to two stories of spiral staircase steps. “Hm,” I think, “This is interesting. Well, at least I might see Tatiana on the way up. I wonder what new toy she has that she wants to show me.” The scrubbing sound is getting closer, but then we pass by it. Now we are in a part of the house where I had never been.

And I hope to never go back there. There are Tatiana and Anatolli, lying on their bed. Dressed, but not ready for company! Nelia is beaming, I am turning red. I start to head down the stairs, but Nelia shouts, “Mama…Beh ehth.” Then Anatolli says, “Oh! Beth!” and jumps up from the bed in his bathrobe. Tatiana scrambles out of the bed, a towel around her waist. “Oh no! Could this get any worse?” I wonder. I am so embarrassed. I frantically search for the Russian word for sorry, but it is nowhere. I just say, “Sorry.” I hope they understood.

But Nelia is so proud. We had surprised her parents! Then she points to the shirt and Tatiana looks at me quizzically. I go back to my original plan, making the fist and pretending like I am ironing. Yeah...this is exactly how I intended it to happen.

Wednesday, August 03, 2005

Vacationing with Moldovans

We were treated to a 6-day vacation in Romania, courtesy of Ivan and Melina last week. (“Treated” in this sense means they drove us and interpreted for us.) It was, in every sense of the word, an adventure! We thoroughly enjoyed seeing Romania, and it was nice to be with people who knew the language. In all, it was very nice trip. However, taking a trip like this certainly had some surprises! Moldovans vacation quite differently than Americans do.

Some differences may be the Moldovan and Romanian bureaucracy, some differences may be attributed to the culture clashes, and some may just be Ivan and Melina. Nevertheless, there are differences!

Start with the luxury of air conditioning. The used cars on the market here that are affordable do not have AC yet. It is summertime. And it is hot, especially while waiting for 2 hours to cross the Moldovan and then the Romanian immigration and customs. Or while waiting 1 hour for a car ferry where the shade was only moderately cooler. My frozen water stayed frozen for 3 hours on the first day. After that, we didn’t have a lot to cool us down. It smelled yummy in the car!

Then imagine touring Romania at the height of the travel season without reservations. We spent 2½ hours the first night looking for a place to stay, 90 minutes the next night, and at the last place we stayed, we spent nearly 4 hours driving to a store (at 11 p.m.) and then BUYING tents so we would have somewhere to sleep.

Next, imagine a vacation without having money. I mean REALLY not having money. They exchanged $100 at the border and had only $115 in cash left once they did that. They don’t have credit cards, and they certainly don’t have an ATM card. This was for a 6-day trip! Gas itself, at more than $4 a gallon, would take up that much money. I suppose they were counting on us to pay for things, and since we had offered it was fine. However, I don’t think they would have been able to take much more if we had not been with them.

Finally, road signs and good maps are important! There aren’t really good road signs anywhere we were, especially driving in Moldova or the little villages dotted throughout Romania. In order to get places, particularly when driving through cities and villages, Ivan would stop and Melina would ask for directions. Then 5 minutes later, Ivan would stop and Melina would ask again. This happened dozens of times. We got where we needed to go, though!

Well, despite all the differences, it was fun. And had we not been with Ivan and Melina, here is what we could have missed: getting fresh peaches from one of the customs agents; feeding one donkey pretzels then getting surrounded by his friends; picnicking next to a sunflower field; seeing very remote, very rural villages; and staying with Romanian families in the pensionnes they built next to their house.